"Shigyoshiki" refers to the beginning of a new year in Kyoto's five hanamachi or "flower towns". Wearing black formal kimono, called Kuromontsuki, the Geiko and Maiko of the neighborhood renew their vows and visit the local ochaya(teahouses) and important patrons to wish the beginning of a prosperous new year. Many beautiful pieces were spotted and it was decided to write a post that would focus on the formal kitsuke worn during the Shigyoshiki 2021 by Hanafusa Geiko and Maiko
Geiko Kikutsuru
Geiko Kikutsuru's Kuromontsuki is one of a kind and has many multi-seasonal and eye-catching motifs that are hand-painted - strong boats fighting the high waves, pine etc. It is tied with golden Darari obi, that not only gives the finishing touch the ensemble but also supports the back of geiko, as the kimono, especially formal kuromontsuki, are extremely heavy. In Miyagawacho, Geiko use special purple obijime (cord that is tied to the obi) when they wear formal kitsuke. This is a tradition unique to Miyagwacho Hanamachi.
The wig Kikutsuru san is wearing in japanese is called Katsura, and it is styled in Geiko Shimada style. For formal events, kanzashi hairpins that are used for decorating katsura, are made from most precious and luxurious materials, such as tortoiseshell, gold, expensive stones etc. Tortoiseshell kanzashi are most unique and antique as nowadays the craftsmen that work with this material are almost non-existent. You can also spot the special rice husk maezashi with a dove, worn both by geiko and maiko. On the other side there is a special new year maezashi with the symbol of this year - an ox.
Geiko Kikumaru
Geiko Kikumaru san is wearing full geiko set with kuromontsuki and oshiroi. Her formal black kimono features waves and a matsu(pine tree). Pine trees are a evergreen and show their strong green leaves even in a hard and cold winter. The energy of the pine tree makes it in Japan a symbol for strength and long life
It is tied with white and golden obi that has a flower motif. Geiko's obi (apr. 440 cm long) are bit longer than simple women's obi. Also, for geiko's obi, patterns are created upside down, so when it is tied in Geiko Taiko knot, the pattern will have the correct position, facing upwards.
She is wearing a katsura wig, same as her oneesan Geiko Kikutsuru. Kikumaru san has decorated it with Bekko (tortoiseshell) comb that features mon of Hanafusa okiya, Bekko Kogai at the back and a traditional dove and rice maezashi (worn only a small period of time during January). Though worn by both Maiko and Geiko, these maezashi are placed on different sides of the hairstyle.
Maiko Kikune
Kuromontsuki that Kikune san wore for Shigyoshiki featured tsuru(crane), waters, matsu, ume(plum blossoms), chrysanthemums - a perfect design for winter and springtime forma events. Tsuru represents good fortune and longevity, matsu - strength, ume - symbol of fore-coming spring and chrysanthemums - longevity, rejuvenation as well as it is mon of Hanafusa okiya. It is tied with long Darari obi (apr. 6.8m) with auspicious chrysanthemum created with golden threads on light yellow background. This obi is very special as it is used during misedashi debuts. Unfortunately not seen at this picture, at the end of every maiko obi there is crest of the okiya girl is part of. No obijime or pocchiri are worn with formal outfit by Maiko.
Formal wear also means that Senior maiko will change from ofuku hairstyle to Yakko Shimada. As well as geiko san, Maiko san too are given opportunity of wearing gorgeous and expensive kanzashi - if you look at the hair of Kikune san, you can notice Bekko Kushi (comb) with Hanafusa okiya mon, Bekkou Hirauchi, Jade Tama, special January daikan (front) kanzashi, maezashi with bira oghi and small pin called bira dome. For Shigyoshiki both Geiko, Junior and Senior maiko wear rice husk maezashi with eyeless dove - rice grains can be given to customers and are considered symbols good luck and fortune.
Maiko Kikushino
Maiko Kikushino san wears most colorful and elaborate kuromontsuki in the okiya. This exact piece features sho chiku bai or "three friends of winter" - pine, bamboo, and plum. The evergreen pine represents longevity and symbolizes renewal, flexible bamboo symbolizes longevity and represents endurance and strength and plum blossoms are the first flowers of spring, representing the renewal. The obi was carefully selected for this special event as is created with beige and golden silk threads. As junior maiko, she ties obiage cloth on the top of the obi, rather than seniors who tuck it into.
As she is a maiko, her own hair is styled, even during formal events as Shigyoshiki, into Wareshinobu hairstyle. Decorated with elaborate bekkou kushi, Bekkou Hirauchi with coral Tama, carefully selected maezashi with seasonal hanakanzashi, more colorful than senior maiko. As for the rice husk maezashi with eyeless dove - not only grains bring luck, but also the eyeless dove has its special meaning - maiko or geiko fill in one eye and ask guest/very special person they like to draw the other for good luck in the coming year. This tradition differs from hanamachi to hanamachi, nevertheless it is considered as lucky charm.
