"Shigyoshiki" refers to the beginning of a new year in Kyoto's five hanamachi or "flower towns". Wearing black formal kimono, called Kuromontsuki, the Geiko and Maiko of the neighborhood renew their vows and visit the local ochaya(teahouses) and important patrons to wish the beginning of a prosperous new year. Many beautiful pieces were spotted and it was decided to write a post that would focus on the formal kitsuke worn during the Shigyoshiki 2020 by Hanafusa Geiko and Maiko
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| from left to right: Maiko Kikushino, Geiko Kikumaru, Okaasan Kikuyu, Geiko Kikutsuru and Maiko Kikune |
For Shigyoshiki 2020
Okaasan Kikuyu has chosen a tomesode. Her tomesode features different elements such as green momiji leaves, matsu, chrysanthemums, pampas grass making this tomesode perfectly fit for the season. This formal maru obi is pink with silver tied carefully into otaiko style knot worn only during formal okasions
Her hair is in Yoohatsu style which basically means "western hairstyle" and made from geikos own hair. It is not as complicating as Maiko san's wareshinobu or ofuku, rather some simplified and mature, yet still need to be done by a professional hairdresser. You can often spot geiko wearing this type of hairstyle during the day or some jikata geiko during the events.
No juban elements are seen and on her feet okaasan is wearing comfortable golden zouri.
Geiko Kikutsuru's Kuromontsuki is one of a kind and has many multi-seasonal and eye-catching motifs that are hand-painted - strong boats fighting the high waves, pine etc. It is tied with golden Darari obi, that not only gives the finishing touch the ensemble but also supports the back of geiko, as the kimono, especially formal kuromontsuki, are extremely heavy. No obijime or pocchiri are worn with formal outfit.
The wig Kikutsuru san is wearing in japanese is called Katsura, and it is styled in Geiko Shimada style. For formal events, kanzashi hairpins that are used for decorating katsura, are made from most precious and luxurious materials, such as tortoiseshell, gold, expensive stones etc. Tortoiseshell kanzashi are most unique and antique as nowadays the craftsmen that work with this material are almost non-existant.
It is first Shyoshiki for
Geiko Kikumaru san so as a fresh geiko she is wearing full geiko set with kuromontsuki and oshiroi. Her formal black kimono features tsuru(cranes) flying upon the waves. It is tied with white and golden obi that has fan flower motif. Geiko's obi (apr. 440 cm long) are bit longer than simple women's obi. Also, for geiko's obi, patterns are created upside down, so when it is tied in Geiko Taiko knot, the pattern will have the correct position, facing upwards.
She is wearing a katsura wig, same as her oneesan Geiko Kikutsuru. Kikumaru san has decoraed it with Bekko (tortoiseshell) comb that features mon of Hanafusa okiya, Bekko Kogai at the back and a traditional dove and rice maezashi (worn only a small period of time during January). Though worn by both Maiko and Geiko, these maezashi are placed on different sides of the hairstyle.
During Shigyoshiki guests and patrons could witness
Maiko Kikune san for the first time as senior maiko. Her Kuromontsuki has many lucky as well as multi-seasonal motifs that are hand-painted - ox-drawn carriages, chrysanthemums, waves, peonies, plum blossoms, pine, summer grasses etc. It is tied with golden Darari obi, that not only gives the finishing touch the ensemble but also supports the back of maiko, as the kimono, especially formal kuromontsuki, are extremely heavy. No obijime or pocchiri are worn with formal outfit.
Formal wear also means that Senior maiko will change from ofuku hairstyle to Yakko Shimada. This is also first time Kikune san wears this hairtyle. As well as geiko san, Maiko san too are given opportunity of wearing gorgeous and expensive kanzashi - if you look at the hair of Kikutsuru san, you can notice Bekko Kushi (comb) with Hanafusa okiya mon, Bekkou Hirauchi, Jade Tama, special January daikan (front) kanzashi, maezashi with bira oghi and small pin called bira dome. For Shigyoshiki both Junior and Senior maiko wear rice husk maezashi with eyeless dove - rice grains can be given to customers and are considered symbols good luck and fortune
As the youngest maiko in the okiya,
Maiko Kikushino san wears most colorful and elaborate kuromontsuki in the okiya. This exact piece features seasonal flowers, leafs as well as many good luck motifs - everything hand-painted on the silk by a skilled master. The obi was carefully selected for this special event as is created with beige and golden silk threads. As junior maiko, she ties obiage cloth on the top of the obi, rather than seniors who tuck it into.
As she is still young maiko, her own hair is styled, even during formal events as Shigyoshiki, into Wareshinobu hairstyle. Decorated with elaborate bekkou kushi, Bekkou Hirauchi with coral Tama, carefully selected maezashi with seasonal hanakanzashi, more colorful than senior maiko. As for the rice husk maezashi with eyeless dove - not only grains bring luck, but also the eyeless dove has its special meaning - maiko or geiko fill in one eye and ask guest/very special person they like to draw the other for good luck in the coming year. This tradition differs from hanamachi to hanamachi, nevertheless it is considered as lucky charm.
