Last week Kyoto Kagai sim hosted Shigyoshiki - annual traditional opening ceremony, that marks the start of another business year in the Karyukai. Geiko and Maiko of Hanafusa okiya gathered at Miyagawacho Kaburenjo theater, wearing most formal black kimono called Kuromontsuki and renewed their vows for the new year. This is one of the few occasions when patrons and guests can see all of Kagai members gathered together wearing full regalia.
At the beginning Okaasan Kikuyu welcomed guests as well as kagai members with an inspiring speech. After she welcomed maiko and geiko to enter the stage and present the vows. They entered in strict ranking: first geiko, than senior maiko, than junior maiko. Shikomi are still in training and do not pledge vows until after their official debut.
Interesting change as spotted during Shigyoshiki - Maiko Kikune was spotted wearing Yakko shimada hairstyle as well as Senior Maiko Kuromotsuki with white eri, which means she is now officially senior maiko.
Also, this year Okaasan Kikuyu decided to switch to formal tomesode, not Kuromontsuki.
After the vows were pledged, maiko and geiko offered sake and, specially prepared for this event, osechi (traditional Japanese New Year foods).
For those who couldn't come but yet are interested, i present formal Kitsuke outfits of Maiko and Geiko from Hanafusa okiya,which they wore for Shigyoshiki:
Geiko Kikuyu
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| Okaasan Kikuyu |
As i have mentioned before, this year Okaasan Kikuyu has decided to wear tomesode rather than kuromontsuki. Geiko san do switch from trailing style kimono and distinctive oshiroi make up to iromontsuki/tomesode and natural looks with time. Her tomesode features different elements such as green momiji leaves, matsu, chrysanthemums, pampas grass making this tomesode perfectly fit for the season. This formal maru obi is pink with silver tied carefully into otaiko style knot worn only during formal okasions
Her hair is in Yoohatsu style which basically means "western hairstyle" and made from geikos own hair. It is not as complicating as Maiko san's wareshinobu or ofuku, rather some simplified and mature, yet still need to be done by a professional hairdresser. You can often spot geiko wearing this type of hairstyle during the day or some jikata geiko during the events.
No juban elements are seen and on her feet okaasan is wearing comfortable golden zouri.
Geiko Kikutsuru
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| Geiko Kikutsuru |
It is first Shyoshiki for Kikutsuru san as geiko so as a fresh geiko is is wearing full geiko set with kuromontsuki and oshiroi. Her kuromontsuki is custom made and has pattern under the waist. The design is water and ships. The obi is woven made with golden and silver threads, perfect for important events. Geiko's obi (apr. 440 cm long) are bit longer than simple women's obi. Also, for geiko's obi, patterns are created upside down, so when it is tied in Geiko Taiko knot, the pattern will have the correct position, facing upwards.
The wig geiko Kikutsuru is wearing in Japanese is called Katsura, and it is styled in Geiko Shimada style. For formal events, kanzashi hairpins that are used for decorating katsura, are made from most precious and luxurious materials, such as tortoiseshell, gold, expensive stones etc. Tortoiseshell kanzashi are most unique and antique as nowadays the craftsmen that work with this material are almost non-existant. Kikutsuru san is wearing Bekko (tortoiseshell) comb that features mon of Hanafusa okiya, Bekko Kogai at the back and a traditional dove and rice maezashi (worn only a small period of time during January)
Maiko Kikumaru
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| Maiko Kikumaru |
Kuromontsuki that Kikumaru san wore for Shigyoshiki featured tsuru(crane), waters, matsu, ume(plum blossoms), chrysanthemums - a perfect design for winter and springtime forma events. Tsuru represents good fortune and longevity, matsu - strength, ume - symbol of fore-coming spring and chrysanthemums - longevity, rejuvenation as well as it is mon of Hanafusa okiya.
It is tied with long Darari obi (apr. 6.8m) with auspicious chrysanthemum created with golden threads on light yellow background. This obi is very special as it is used during misedashi debuts. Unfortunately not seen at this picture, at the end of every maiko obi there is crest of the okiya girl belongs to.
Her hair is styled in Yakko Shimada and decorated with valuable tortoiseshell hair pieces and seasonal pins. January daikan (front) kanzashi, are unique and new ones are commissioned at the beginning of the year. This years motifs are plum blossoms, bamboo leafs and matsu needles. Other decorations and pins are made from tortoiseshell.
Maiko Kikune
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| Maiko Kikune |
During Shigyoshiki guest and patrons could witness Kikune san for the first time as senior maiko. Her Kuromontsuki has many lucky as well as multi-seasonal motifs that are hand-painted - ox-drawn carriages, chrysanthemums, waves, peonies, plum blossoms, pine, summer grasses etc. It is tied with golden Darari obi, that not only gives the finishing touch the ensemble but also supports the back of maiko, as the kimono, especially formal kuromontsuki, are extremely heavy. No obijime or pocchiri are worn with formal outfit.
Formal wear also means that Senior maiko will change from ofuku hairstyle to Yakko Shimada. This is also first time Kikune san wears this hairtyle. As well as geiko san, Maiko san too are given opportunity of wearing gorgeous and expensive kanzashi - if you look at the hair of Kikutsuru san, you can notice Bekko Kushi (comb) with Hanafusa okiya mon, Bekkou Hirauchi, Jade Tama, special January daikan (front) kanzashi, maezashi with bira oghi and small pin called bira dome. For Shigyoshiki both Junior and Senior maiko wear rice husk maezashi with eyeless dove - rice grains can be given to customers and are considered symbols good luck and fortune.
Maiko Kikushino
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| Maiko Kikushino |
As the youngest maiko in the okiya, Kikushino san wears most colorful and elaborate kuromontsuki in the okiya. This exact piece features seasonal flowers, leafs as well as many good luck motifs - everything hand-painted on the silk by a skilled master. The obi was carefully selected for this special event as is created with beige and golden silk threads. As junior maiko, she ties obiage cloth on the top of the obi, rather than seniors who tuck it into. To add more, this is sister obi of the one worn by Maiko Kikumaru, oneesan of Kikushino.
As she is still young maiko, her own hair is styled, even during formal events as Shigyoshiki, into Wareshinobu hairstyle. Decorated with elaborate bekkou kushi, Bekkou Hirauchi with coral Tama, carefully selected maezashi with seasonal hanakanzashi, more colorful than senior maiko. As for the rice husk maezashi with eyeless dove - not only grains bring luck, but also the eyeless dove has its special meaning - maiko or geiko fill in one eye and ask guest/very special person they like to draw the other for good luck in the coming year. This tradition differs from hanamachi to hanamachi, nevertheless it is considered as lucky charm.
